15 Cup HHO Fuel Cell "Flip Cup" demonstration

Small is good and means way less water.

So I guess that would be a good thing, because you don't want to be electrically charging a gallon of water to run a fuel cell.

Plus it doesn't take as much electrolyte to run the cell.

Smaller containers NICE… I like small instead of huge

I took your advice and reconfigured my cell as follows: + NN NN NN NN NN -

It does not produce as much as before, but it isn't bad. The best part is that the connectors and the container never got warm during the past 4 hours I've had it running.

I did have to add more KOH to get similar output. Instead of 1/4 teaspoon, I'm using a 1/2 teaspoon.

I'll be sure to record the output and give credit where it is due. You helped me out big time!

Smack is the Man! I've been watching his videos for almost a year now.

I built several other fuel cells before using the cups, but all I was doing was copying someone else's work, so I really didn't learn anything. I still have my Water4Gas (garbage), sirHOAX Lowes Clamshell, a Smack Cell knockoff, and I even tried to put together a replica of the EBN Dry Cell.

But only having bits and pieces of the puzzle makes it difficult to know why or how to get results.

Thank you for all of you help.

and then it looks like you are producing more HHO gas but in fact it is the same amount of HHO gas. It only looks like more HHO gas when the water is warm. My teacher always said that you only know for sure when you do measurements. Keep up the good work though, you are learning fast

That is something that is worth to try.
The smack booster makes use of that configuration. (check this channel from Eletrikride). But you know for sure that it is more productive when you can measure the HHO output. When you can measure the output you can calculate the efficiency called MMW, (milliliters per minute per used watt). The water temperature is also important because you get different outcomes with different water temperatures. The gas expands drastically when it gets warmer….

and then it looks like you are producing more HHO gas but in fact it is the same amount of HHO gas. It only looks like more HHO gas when the water is warm. My teacher always said that you only know for sure when you do measurements. Keep up the good work though, you are learning fast

That is something that is worth to try.
The smack booster makes use of that configuration. (check this channel from Eletrikride). But you know for sure that it is more productive when you can measure the HHO output. When you can measure the output you can calculate the efficiency called MMW, (milliliters per minute per used watt). The water temperature is also important because you get different outcomes with different water temperatures. The gas expands drastically when it gets warmer….

what if I have 10 neutrals, but only have spacers inbetween every 2 neutrals? This way I would be keeping the cups to 2 volts each, but would have more reactive surface area.

I figured this was the case, because my neutral cups are touching each other they become one neutral cup. That would mean that my 15 cup cell is actually a 3 cup cell and the positive negative and neutral are all using 4 volts.

I'll try reducing the number of neutrals and inserting spacers.

A different enclosure is not the way to go, you can get rid of the heat by making a cell that is build the wright way. A hydrogen cell that is working properly should not get much warmer as 110 degrees Fahrenheit. That is when you use 5 separated, isolated neutrals with one positive and one negative. Stacked neutrals will react as one single neutral, do your measurements.

You are creating heat because your neutrals are wrong. You didn't isolate the neutrals from each other. If you measure the voltage you will notice that the voltage on your stacked neutral cups is far above 2 volt and then the cell will create more heat then it should. Adding more neutrals with no spacing is a waste of time if you want to make a useful cell. The reason why you have to use isolated neutrals is to create an even voltage drop from around 2 volts per cup or plate.

Your designs are very impressive. Can you try (while waiting for your amp meter to arrive) to replace this 15 amp fuse with 10 or 5? This will you some clues:-)

Thanks, I found my tupperware that got melted.

I'll have to put together a video of what not to do, so everyone can see the importance of using an enclosure that is capable of handling high temperatures.

WOW! Impressive set great job!

So far the water has not turned brown. With other cells I've gotten light brown water.

I am still waiting on an Amp meter that I ordered online, but I know for certain that it is running less than 15 Amps. The reason that I'm certain it is below 15 Amps, is because I have a 15 Breaker that never popped after 2 hours of running the cell.

Awesome cell!!! Does your water ever turn a little brown with those cups? Also, how many amps are you pulling?