New 6 Cup HHO Fuel Cell "Flip Cup"

Its Oxygen/Hydrogen fumes…which also get HOT…. thats what melted my bubbler…I think I might have to build a Flash Back instead. Another good idea, really like where you are going with you cells. Great job.

Looks like my 2 stage dryer worked, so now I'll have to record a video of how it works.

Well, I am not really sure, I have seen the KOH electrolite ested and it does a good job of creating toxic waste.I have also been told ALL electrolasis with stainless produces some so I will treat all solutions as hazardous. Even water, which is where I hope I am going, pure water. Right now I am working at low amperages (for now anyway) and have no problem with stainless wire. I understand stranded stainless cable is available and will look for it when needed. No lead solder, silver soldr only.

I am aware of the issue of water vapor.
I've been working on a design of a 2 stage dryer method that should prevent any vapor from making it into the engine.

I've already filled up 4 Water Bottles from the hose after my dryer, and placed them in the freezer. I should know by tomorrow morning if I still need to worry about the moisture issue.

I have a 50 Gal drum that I pour everything into and it gets disposed of once a month.

Is there less of a concern of chromium issues when using sodium hydroxide? If so, I bought a 2 lb. container that I will use instead.

I also have 100 ft. of stainless wire that I could use, but I've noticed that it gets really hot, so maybe I will need to heatshrink a few pieces together until it is as thick as 10 guage wire.

I forgot to mention, now that you are using KOH and most other electrolites, the steam can damage the internal components of your engine. You need to keep the steam down, hydrogen is clear and so is oxygen. Even after the bubbler it can be sneaking through. Many people in the field are trying to design dryers to take all vapor out of the gas before the engine inake. Water vapor is not TOO hazardous for an engine, even helps performance but electrolite vapor is dangerous to the engine.

Looks good so far. I do have some concerns. The wire and connectors have already been mentioned. I am experimenting with stainless wire (welding wire) and silver soldering it to plates. But also, now that you are using KOH there is MORE problem of chromium6 leaching into electolite. Wear rubber gloves! DONT throw the electolite down the drain or on the lawn. Dispose of as hazardous waste, which it definately is. Hexavailient chromium is dabgerous stuff, be careful. Keep up the good work!

I agree, the world should have this technology and every car should have a HHO fuel cell to reduce emissions.

I've watched so many videos over the past year, since I started playing around with HHO fuel cells, but I have to admit that I haven't really taken notes when I should have. I guess everyone has to learn the basics the hard way.

Even though the cups are not 316L Stainless Steel, they don't cost much and they work well, so that is why I am using cups for my experiments.

your welcome, if we all work together we can make this world a lot better. I am not the most experienced dude on YouTube but I have seen so many videos that I can tell you what videos to watch for most solutions to problems that occur when you experiment with HHO, and forgive me my bad English I am dutch lol

I understand what you mean,

I was thinking the same in the beginning after I realised that some folks are experimenting for more then 2 years. Then I started to study some more so I could pick it up from there. It saved me a lot of money Watch out with that vapor because it can be harmful to your engine if there is some chemical left in the vapor. It can eat your piston and valves away because of the chemical reaction with the aluminum.

Thank you for taking the time to explain this. I appreciate your input, because most people just watch the videos and then never leave any constructive criticism.

Thank you for the heads up on the copper wire, I was aware that I should not use connectors that would corrode, but was not clear on why this was so.

I am currently designing a dry cell model of my design that will be able to have additional cells added in series. This way you can easily connect additional cells if necessary to accommodate larger vehicles.

My main goal is to come up with a solution that is small and compact, but has output similar to larger units.

I'm subscribed on most of the channels you mentioned.

The reason I'm trying different designs than what is already proven to work, is the same reason that Stan Meyer, ZeroFossilFuels, Eletrikride (aka the Smack), Smartscarecrow and so many others came up with their own designs. The trial and error and incorporating elements of other peoples designs is how better fuel cells are discovered. Making clones of other peoples fuel cells doesn't interest me!

P.S. The vapor is water and it is a bad thing. You are getting vapor because you have to many volts per plate/cup as I explained above or below this message. HHO is an invisible gas. To know for sure that it is water vapor try to collect some gas inside a small bottle and put it inside a freezer, if you get ice crystals inside the bottle you know for sure it is water vapor. You get less vapor when you use a bubbler but the main reason to use a bubbler is for safety reasons.

I hope that you can use this information and benefit from it. I also hope that you understand that I am trying to be helpful to you. I started to waste money with the spiral design and then with the cup design before I changed to the wet cell Plate design. The next design I am going to use is the dry cell design because for this moment it is the best design.

Best regards,

Rick

Another good thing about the dry cell design is that you can easily start with a few plates and ad more plates to the same cell in a later stadium without changing the design. A dry cell is also a lot more easy to construct and a lot more compact and efficient because you get less current leakage. Keep up the good work though, and check my subscriptions on my youtube channel, I subscribed to many hho enthusiasts. And most of them started with wet cells and changed to the dry cell design.

Go see the youtube channel from Zerofossilfuel, Eletrikride, almosthydrogen, smartscarecrow and so on. The EBN team (energy builders network) did a lot of experiments and research, why try to invent the wheel again?
There are many videos that show you what to do and what not to do. Unless you are very rich and have a lot of time I suggest you to make a dry cell for optimal results and a compact and practical design without the risk that you create a lot of heat.

The reason why you need 5 neutrals is because you do not want more then 2 volts per plate/cup. If you use more volts then you are creating heat. It is called volt per plate gap. the best configuration is +nnnnn- for a 13.8 volt application. Make a measuring system so you know how much hho you produce for every volt and amp per minute so you can calculate the MMW otherwise you keep guessing. It is very well possible that you make steam that create nice bubbles that looks nice but is worthless.

I have watched thousands of hho videos and those that I consider as hho experts on Youtube use 316L Stainless Steel plates and get much better results, and they never use copper wire to connect inside the cell because of the chemical reaction to the copper. In the long run it is potentially dangerous because of the explosion danger. A wet cell like yours is less efficient then any dry cell design and I recommend that you do some more studying b4 you move on and waste more money.